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HowaPoor,AbandonedParisianBoyBecameaTopChef
A)ThebusystreetsinPariswereunevenandcakedinthickmud,buttherewasalwaysabreathtakingsight
toseeintheshopwindowsofPatisseriedelaRuedelaPaix.By1814,peoplecrowdedoutsidethebakery,
strainingforaglimpseofthelatestsweetfoodcreatedbytheyoungchefwhoworkedinside.
B) HisnamewasMarie-AntoineCarême,andhehadappeared,oneday,almostoutofnowhere.Butinhis
shortlifetime,whichendedexactly184yearsagotoday,hewouldforeverrevolutionizeFrenchgourmet
food 美食,writebest-sellingcookbooksandthinkupmagicaldishesforroyalsandotherimportantpeople.
C) Carême'schildhoodwasoneparttragedy,equalpartmystery.Bornthe16thchildtopoorparentsinPar
isineither1783or1784,ayoungCarêmewassuddenlyabandonedattheheightoftheFrenchRevolution.
At8yearsold,heworkedasakitchenboyforarestaurantinParisinexchangeforroomandboard.Byage
15, he had become an apprentice( 学 徒 )toSylvainBailly, awell-knowndessertchef
withasuccessfulbakeryin oneofParis'smostfashionableneighborhoods.
D) Carêmewasquickatlearninginthekitchen.Baillyencouragedhisyoungapprenticetolearntoreadan
dwrite.CarêmewouldoftenspendhisfreeafternoonsatthenearbyNationalLibraryreadingbooksonarta
ndarchitecture.Inthebackroomofthelittlebakery,hisinterestindesignandhisbakingtalentcombinedto
workwonders-heshapeddeliciousmasterpiecesoutofflour,butterandsugar.
E) Inhisteenageyears,Carêmefashionedeatablecopiesofthelate18thcentury'smostfamous
buildings-cookiesintheshapeofruinsofancientAthensandpiesintheshapeofancientChinesepalaces
andtemples.SylvainBailly,hismaster,displayedtheseluxuriantcreations-oftenaslargeas4feettall-inhis
bakerywindows.
F)Carême'screationssooncapturedthediscriminatingeyeofaFrenchdiplomat,CharlesMauricede
Talleyrand-Perigord.Around1804,TalleyrandchallengedCarêmetoproduceafullmenuforhispersonal
castle,instructingtheyoungbakertouselocal,seasonalfruitsandvegetablesandtoavoidrepeatingmain
dishesoverthecourseofanentireyear.TheexperimentwasagrandsuccessandTalleyrand'sassociation
withFrenchnobilitywouldproveaprofitableconnectionforCarême.
G)FrenchEmperorNapoleonBonapartewasknowntobeunimpressedbythedecliningtasteofearly
18thcenturycooking,butunderpressuretoentertainParis'shighsociety,hetoocalledCarêmetohis
kitchenatTuileriesPalace.In1810,CarêmedesignedtheextraordinarycakefortheweddingofNapoleon
andhissecondbride,Marie-LouiseofAustria.Hebecameoneofthefirstmodernchefstofocusonthe
appearanceofhistable,notjusttheflavorofhisdishes. "Iwantorderandtaste.Awell-
displayedmealisenhancedonehundredpercentinmyeyes,"helaterwrote
inoneofhiscookbooks.
H) In1816,Carêmebeganaculinary(烹饪的)journeywhichwouldforevermarkhisplaceashistory'sf
irsttopchef.HevoyagedtoEnglandtocookinthemodernGreatKitchenoftheprinceregent(摄政王),
GeorgeIV,andcrossedcontinentstopreparegrandbanquetsforthetablesofTsarAlexanderIof
Russia.Neverafraidtotalkuphisownaccomplishments,aboastfulCarêmemadeafortuneaswealthy
familieswithsocialambitionsinvitedhimtotheirkitchens.Later,inhiscookbooks,hewouldoften
includeasketchofhimself,sothatpeopleonthestreetwouldbeabletorecognize-andadmire-him.
I) Carême'scookingdisplaysbecamethesymboloffineFrenchdining;theywereplentiful,beautifuland
imposing.GuestswouldfallsilentinwonderasservantscarriedCarême'sfancycreationsintothedininghal
l.ForabanquetcelebratingtheGrandDukeNicholasofRussia'svisittoGeorgeIV'sBrightonPavillionon
Jan. 18, 1817,themenufeatured120differentdishes,highlightingeightdifferentsoups,
40maincourses,and32desserts.
J) Ashetraveledthroughthehomesofearly19thcenturynobility,CarêmeforgedthenewartofFrench
gourmetfood.Lockedinhotkitchens,Carêmecreatedhisfour"mothersauces."Thesesauces-béchamel,
velouté,espagnoleandallemande-formedthecentralbuildingblocksformanyFrenchmaincourses.Healso
perfectedthesoufflé-abakedeggdish,andintroducedthestandardchef'suniform-thesamedouble-breasted
whitecoatandtallwhitehatstillwornbymanychefstoday.Thewhiteclothingconveyedanimageofcleanl
iness,accordingtoCarême-andinhisrealm,appearancewaseverything.
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